The next step of the jikryeong process was to finish the lower side panels. I was able to turn it inside out enough to access the edges I needed and sew these seams by machine:
Next I had to tackle the collar. To give it some extra body, I cut two more strips of the teal linen (one without seam allowance) and machine quilted them together with zigzag stitches. I cut the curve on the end and then sewed the quilted piece to the outer and lining layers at the top edge. I then folded over and pressed the seam allowance on both layers. I basted the folded edge of the outer layer around the quilted interlining and then laid out where the collar would go on the front of the body:
At this point the body panels had not been trimmed at all. The goal was to line up the collar so the bottom point hit at the top of the diagonal panel (in line with the side gusset below the sleeve) and the top hit the edge of the neck opening:
As you can see in the diagram, the collar just barely covered the point where the main crossover panel attached to the body. In the future, I will add a couple inches to this panel for safety.
The edge of the body lining didn’t quite match up with the outer layer, so I trimmed the lining to match and then slip stitched the diagonal edge. I could probably have done this by machine, but I didn’t want to risk throwing the collar out of alignment.
I then trimmed the body panels back under the collar and stitched the outer layer of the collar to the body. I cut a slight curve in the back of the neck opening and then continued sewing the collar down around the back of the neck.
I followed a similar method to attach the collar to the other side of the body. This part was simpler because there was only one crossover panel and the collar was square at the end. I had planned for extra length on the collar piece, and once I had it laid out I trimmed off the extra. Before attaching the collar here I sewed the edge of the crossover panel on the machine. Once the collar was attached all the way around, I sewed the lining down on the inside of the body.
Next I trimmed the lining at the cuffs and hand finished those edges. Finally, I made some silk ties for the front and a heavy linen tie for the inside.
The final steps will be adding the white band on the collar (dongjeong – 동정), hemming, and pleating in the side panels.
Seong Myeong Su Daegam provided a large amount of research and translation help with this outfit.