In my previous post about the gat, I noted that the reproductions you can buy are the later, cylindrical shape. I wanted to see if I could make the round crown shape myself.
The traditional method of making a gat is far beyond my ability, so anything I did would have to be an approximation. The shape, color, and transparent mesh look were what I was primarily trying to achieve. After some searching and experimenting with materials, I settled on using sinamay, a woven fiber material used for modern millinery. I built the crown on a wooden form and made the brim flat, then sewed them together and added a cloth binding over the join. I added hooks just like I did for my purchased gat to attach the gatkkeun.
I stiffened the fabric with Mod Podge and thinned wallpaper paste, which did a pretty good job but didn’t hold up well to humidity. I may try adding another type of stiffener to make it more water-resistant. I would also like to try making a more rounded brim next time to improve rigidity and get closer to some of the shapes seen in the portraits.
The form for the crown started as a serious of wooden discs.The discs were glued together and then turned on a lathe to get the right shape.At first I tried simply stretching the cloth over the form, but there was too much at the base to get it smooth.To take up the extra bulk, I added a seam at the back of the crown.I added more layers to get the right amount of opacity, then sewed all the layers together in the back and added the stiffener.The brim started with an oversized circle drawn on a piece of cardboard.The crown form was placed in the center of the circle.Plastic wrap on the cardboard to keep the stiffener from soaking into it.The first layer of sinamay laid out.Two more layers were added, stiffened, and trimmed to a (still oversized) circle.More stiffener was added.A line of glue around the edge to further stabilize it.Sewing through the glued edge to lock the layers together.Sewing through the layers at the inside edge.The nearly completed brim.Hanging to let the stiffener dry.Adding a fabric edge to the trimmed brim.After assembling the crown and brim, it looked a bit too tall.The final product, with a shortened crown.