Man’s Hanbok – Gatkkeun

Gatkkeun owned by Ryu Seong-Ryong (1542 – 1607) 

The tie holding the gat to the head is called gatkkeun (갓끈). These straps were sometimes decorated with beads to help weight the hat down, and these beaded strings eventually became a separate article. Materials mentioned as being used for these beads include gold, jade, agate, amber, coral, lapis lazuli, ivory, and bamboo. 

The gatkkeun varied in length based on wealth and fashion, sometimes becoming quite long or being held together partway down by a connecting bead. A variety of forms can be seen in the examples owned by Ryu Seong-Ryong. A common form is alternating oblong and round beads with a larger central bead. The alternating long narrow bead (made from wood, bamboo, or other materials) and round bead form is also seen often throughout the Joseon period. The form of small beads all the same size seems less common, though there are paintings that seem to be alternating large and small round beads .

Hojonanggwangyehodo “Fraternity Meeting of Mid-level Officials of the Ministry of Revenue” c. 1550 – National Museum of Korea
Portrait of Jin Kim (1500 – 1580) – Korea Institute for the Promotion of Korean Studies

I was initially unable to find a suitable oblong bead, so I opted for alternating large and small beads for my gatkkeun. The beads I chose were of unidentified material, some of them probably colored glass. I strung them on metal beading wire, attaching jump rings on the ends with crimp beads.

I sewed loops of thread around the junction of the crown and brim of my gat, just in front of the straps. I fashioned S-hooks from wire and hooked one end through the thread loops, leaving the other end free to attach the beads.

Later I made two more with oblong bone and round glass beads:

Updated: December 17, 2020 — 11:18 am