Man’s Hanbok – Jikryeong Patterning

The most complex garment for this outfit is the jikryeong (직령, pronounced “jingnyeong”). This is a coat with a straight collar (as opposed to the danryeong, which has a round collar) and pleated sides.

I created my pattern based on this example from Dankook University SeokJuseon Memorial Museum:

The original is made of silk, padded and possibly lined with cotton, dated from 1524-1582. Mine will be made of linen, lined with cotton. After estimating the measurements based on the above pictures, I came up with this cutting layout based on 58″ wide fabric:

So far I have cut the cotton lining, which was in 5 yard chunks requiring a little adjustment to the above diagram. I made sure to label the pieces as I cut them so I could later tell the various rectangles apart.

Seong Myeong Su Daegam provided a large amount of research and translation help with this outfit.

Updated: December 1, 2020 — 10:58 pm