This guibbone (doublet) is based on a number of images of similar garments. The common features are:
- wide, round neckline
- center front opening (often unfastened at the top)
- sleeves that are full to below the elbow, then narrower (but not tight) below that
- a square front panel up to the mid-chest
The first step is to create the body that all the other pieces will attach to. The outer shell is green silk taffeta, interlined with cotton canvas for stiffness, then lined with medium weight white linen.
Since the heavy interlining made bag lining impossible and there was no evidence of a bound edge in the images, I decided to cut the interlining without seam allowance and wrap the silk around the edge, then sew the lining in by hand. The side, back, and shoulder seams were done by machine, and then it was just a lot of hand sewing to get all the layers together. Normally I would do a lot of basting to keep thing in place while sewing, but taffeta is very bad about showing pin holes. Instead, I used mini binder clips to hold the edges together as I worked on them. It worked surprisingly well, despite being a little cumbersome.
The front is closed with seven pairs of hand made hooks and eyes sewn in under the lining.
Initial pattern
Trimming down the neck opening
Final pattern
Basting the test swatch
Wrapping the edge of the test swatch
Lining the test swatch
All three layers
Wrapping the edge
Wrapping the edge
Still wrapping the edges
Clipping in the lining
Sewing the lining
Sewing more lining
Sewing hooks and eyes