Both sleeves are on the doublet now. Here’ some pictures of the sleeve installation process:
The wool and linen lining are sewn together by machine and turned through the wrist end. The edges are pressed and the seam whip stitched together. Here the wool has been sewn; later the linen will be sewn with another, looser whip stitch. There is an opening left at the wrist and at the shoulder, where the gusset will be inserted.
The shoulder wing has been basted into the top of the armscye.
The sleeve is sewn into the armscye, starting from the shoulder seam on the doublet. The wing is included in this seam.
The finished sleeve seam, with a triangular gap that will be filled with a gusset.
A scrap of wool is placed over the hole. The edges are traced with chalk, brass rubbing style. An arrow shows which side will attach to the armscye.
The wool is trimmed, and the first corner is turned under for basting.
The edges of the gusset are turned and basted in place, turning in each corner as it is reached.
All edges are basted.
A scrap of linen is pinned in the middle of the gusset and trimmed to shape.
The edges of the linen are turned under and pinned in place.
The linen lining is sewn in place.
The gusset is installed!