Romanino Doublet: Sleeves

I wanted to have big sleeves on this doublet, but didn’t want to have too many layers going on. Hopefully they’ll work out okay. I started with a black linen inner sleeve, with velvet on the lower half:

romanino-sleeve-1Then I cut a nice big upper sleeve from the velvet. The plan was to have fullness at the shoulder and above the elbow, but not under the arm.

romanino-sleeve-2I sewed a strip of the yellow cotton to the bottom edge of the upper sleeve, turned it, gathered up cartridge pleats (except under the arm) and sewed up the seam. Then I attached the inner and outer sleeves at the shoulder, pleating in the fullness with 8 knife pleats.

romanino-sleeve-3The cartridge pleats were then tacked down by hand around the elbow. I think the end result could use more fullness in the middle, but I’m not sure that extra layers in the upper sleeve would help that much. There’s certainly plenty of shape given by the cartridge pleating, so hopefully that will be enough.

romanino-sleeve-4

Updated: April 25, 2013 — 11:30 am