Month: March 2011

Household Workshop Day

This weekend was the first chance I was able to get together with both my new student Philippa and my apprentice Serafina. We met up at Philippa’s house to work on various projects.

A couple weeks ago I helped Philippa drape a body block for herself. We used that to work out patterns for a kirtle and loose gown modeled after a portrait of Eleanora de Toledo. After a few iterations of drafting and test fitting, we arrived at a pretty good shape.

Serafina brought along a new pouch that she’s been working on, and made good progress on it. It’s shaping up to be very close to the period examples she’s working from.

After we finished sewing for the day, we went over a few dances that Philippa wanted to teach her students later this week. Despite having to imagine most of the other dancers in our sets, I think it went pretty well.

A Note For All: Planning Dancing For Events

In the course of preparing for an event, there are many things that require advance planning and work before the appointed date arrives. If there is to be a feast, a head cook must be selected, who will plan what dishes will be served, test the recipes, buy the food, and perhaps cook some things before the feast itself. Artisans may spend weeks or months creating decorations, site tokens, tourney prizes, and the like. Teachers must prepare their classes and create instructional materials.

Though it usually comes at the very end of the event and is a time for joy and relaxation, a dance revel benefits just as much from such attention. Just as the other event staff is chosen well ahead of time, your dance leader should be appointed early enough that they can plan ahead for the dancing. If there is to be live music, this makes it much easier for the musicians to be prepared, whether they are from your own group or from further afield. More importantly, if the dance list is created and posted along with the other event information, there will be ample chance for those attending the event to learn unfamiliar dances or refresh their memories.

Just as the populace of the hosting group may be involved in the cooking and serving of feast, the creation of decorations and prizes, and other tasks that contribute to the success of an event, so too can they be involved in preparation for the dancing. A pre-determined dance list is an excellent way to focus the instruction at your local dance practice, or to get a local practice started in preparation for your event. While it is possible to teach dances at a revel, it is far more enjoyable for there to be enough familiarity with the dances that no teaching is required, or simply a quick reminder of the choreography.

It is, of course, possible to contact one of the experienced dance masters in the kingdom at the last minute to run your revel, but this should be the exception rather than the rule. An experienced cook from another group may be able to produce a good feast on a moment’s notice, but far better to give the aspiring cooks in the hosting group an opportunity to hone their craft so that they may achieve mastery in their own right.

Dance Class Recap

So the Barony was contacted a few weeks back by a homeschool group in the area that was looking for someone to teach them some dances that they could incorporate into a Robin Hood play. I drove down to McDonough this evening (along with my faithful apprentice Serafina) for the class, not exactly sure what to expect. Since they would be performing the dances without any ringers later, I decided to stick to some pretty simple stuff that would still be fun and look good on stage: Gathering Peascods, Queen’s Alman, and Montarde Bransle.

There were a couple dozen kids there, from about 6 to 18 (plus several spectating parents), and they were all very attentive and excited. We spent 3 hours learning and drilling the dances, with a little Ballo del Fiore thrown in to shake things up before the final run-through. By the end they were able to make it through everything with hardly any calling from me, so I think that if they get to practice a few more times they should have no problem. I had a really good time teaching, and hopefully a few of them will come see what the rest of our game is about. I think any of them would be great to have around.

Van der Weyden Gown: Planning

I’m not quite ready to start on it yet, but I have some ideas about the gown for this project. I think I want to do something like this:

Click!

Isabella of Portugal, a copy c. 1500 of a portrait executed by van der Weyden before 1451

I plan to make the gown from the blue silk taffeta that I used for my Bronzino suit, with black velvet for the collar and cuffs. I like this gown because it has nice unstructured pleats and wide sleeves that should make it easy to wear. I’ll need to back the taffeta with something heavier to give it some body, I’m sure.

As for the hat, I think I’ll try something more like this one:

Rogier van der Weyden, Portrait of a Lady c. 1455

 

Van der Weyden Kirtle: Skirt

Looking at the skirt in the painting, my first plan was to make a nice circle skirt with no pleats at the waistline. I cut a couple skirt length chunks of the linen, cut each of those up into four gores, French seamed it all together (on the machine!) and slapped it onto the bodice. I ended up with a few small pleats in the back, but I figured that would be fine.
It was not enough skirt. Nowhere near enough. Not much hem, didn’t fit well at the waist, and altogether terrible. I undid the waist seam and the center front seam (no French seam there, since it was two selvedge edges), cut another length of linen, divided into two mostly-rectangular trapezoids, and added it into the front of the skirt. I reattached it to the waist so the new section was pleated into the front half of the bodice, and the original gored part of the skirt all went in the back. I haven’t gotten a chance to try it on her yet, but it should fit just fine.
Can I justify the pleats? There are some pleats in the back of kirtles depicted by van der Weyden (like this one), and pleating all the way around the waist in this fairly contemporary painting by Hugo van der Goes. It’s not the ideal solution, but I think it’ll be sufficient.