Flat Drafting a Bodice

Corset/Kirtle Pattern Draft

By Leda Sand

 

Take 5 measurements:

-(HPS toW) High point of shoulder to natural waist (high waist)

-(CH) Bust measured at widest point viewed from the front

-(DCH) drafting chest = bust minus 2″

-(W) waist measured at natural waist level (high waist)

-(DW) drafting waist = waist minus 2″-3″

-(BW) back to waist measured from base of neck to natural waist

-(SH) shoulder measured from side of neck to shoulder bone at top of arm

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Front Draft Measurements

(I think it’s easier to do all the math before you start drawing)

A-B=(HPS toW)_____              F-G=(SH)_____

A-D=(DCH/4)_____                 D-H=(DCH/4)-3/4″_____

B-C=(1.5″)                               C-I=(DW/3)_____

A-F=(DCH/12)+1″_____          I-J=(1.75″)

J-K=______(measured from the draft)  D-H-JK=______ (measured from the draft)

 

Drawing the Front Bodice

Draw line A-B. Mark point D. Draw square lines at A,B, & D. Mark point C. Draw straight line from D to C. Draw A-F. Place the corner of your drafting square at F with one side of the square aligned with point D. Draw line FG. Draw line D-H. Draw line C-I. Mark point J 1.75″ above point I. Draw a curve from C to J that is straighter at C and more curved toward J. Make sure angle at C and angle at J is 90 degrees. From point J, draw a line upward to 1.25″above the chest line and mark as point K. Draw the arm scye in a curve from G to H to K.  Record arm scye measurement GHK. Measure the chest line from D through H to line JK and record the number for use on the back draft. Extend the centerline below point C to match the corset or bodice style you wish to make. Draw neckline 1.5″ above point D and perpendicular to centerline DC. Draw shoulder straps 1.25″-1.5″ wide, following the curve of the arm scye.  Draw seam allowances where needed.

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Back Draft Measurements

A-B=(BW)                                                        D1-F=(JK from front draft)

A-C=(DCH/4)                                                   A-G=(DCH/16)

B-D=(DW/6)                                                    F-H=(DCH/2)-(front armscye GHK)

C-E=(DHK from front draft)-(DCH/2)              A-I=(DCH/12)

 

Drawing the Back Bodice

Draw line A-B. Mark point C. Draw square lines at A,B,&C. Draw line B-D. Mark D1, 1/2″ below D. Draw line B-D1. Draw line C-E. Draw line D1-F. Draw line A-G. From point G measure out the length of SH and draw an arc. Draw line F-H in a slight curve from point F to where ever it intersects the arc. Mark that as point H. Draw line G-H. Mark point I and draw square line to arm scye. Draw shoulder strap 1.25″-1.5″ wide following the curve of the arm scye until it meets the back neckline. Draw seam allowances where needed.

 

Draft Back Draft Front