Corset/Kirtle Pattern Draft
By Leda Sand
Take 5 measurements:
-(HPS toW) High point of shoulder to natural waist (high waist)
-(CH) Bust measured at widest point viewed from the front
-(DCH) drafting chest = bust minus 2″
-(W) waist measured at natural waist level (high waist)
-(DW) drafting waist = waist minus 2″-3″
-(BW) back to waist measured from base of neck to natural waist
-(SH) shoulder measured from side of neck to shoulder bone at top of arm
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Front Draft Measurements
(I think it’s easier to do all the math before you start drawing)
A-B=(HPS toW)_____ F-G=(SH)_____
A-D=(DCH/4)_____ D-H=(DCH/4)-3/4″_____
B-C=(1.5″) C-I=(DW/3)_____
A-F=(DCH/12)+1″_____ I-J=(1.75″)
J-K=______(measured from the draft) D-H-JK=______ (measured from the draft)
Drawing the Front Bodice
Draw line A-B. Mark point D. Draw square lines at A,B, & D. Mark point C. Draw straight line from D to C. Draw A-F. Place the corner of your drafting square at F with one side of the square aligned with point D. Draw line FG. Draw line D-H. Draw line C-I. Mark point J 1.75″ above point I. Draw a curve from C to J that is straighter at C and more curved toward J. Make sure angle at C and angle at J is 90 degrees. From point J, draw a line upward to 1.25″above the chest line and mark as point K. Draw the arm scye in a curve from G to H to K. Record arm scye measurement GHK. Measure the chest line from D through H to line JK and record the number for use on the back draft. Extend the centerline below point C to match the corset or bodice style you wish to make. Draw neckline 1.5″ above point D and perpendicular to centerline DC. Draw shoulder straps 1.25″-1.5″ wide, following the curve of the arm scye. Draw seam allowances where needed.
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Back Draft Measurements
A-B=(BW) D1-F=(JK from front draft)
A-C=(DCH/4) A-G=(DCH/16)
B-D=(DW/6) F-H=(DCH/2)-(front armscye GHK)
C-E=(DHK from front draft)-(DCH/2) A-I=(DCH/12)
Drawing the Back Bodice
Draw line A-B. Mark point C. Draw square lines at A,B,&C. Draw line B-D. Mark D1, 1/2″ below D. Draw line B-D1. Draw line C-E. Draw line D1-F. Draw line A-G. From point G measure out the length of SH and draw an arc. Draw line F-H in a slight curve from point F to where ever it intersects the arc. Mark that as point H. Draw line G-H. Mark point I and draw square line to arm scye. Draw shoulder strap 1.25″-1.5″ wide following the curve of the arm scye until it meets the back neckline. Draw seam allowances where needed.